Hi From Nastia and Masha

Hi, it's Nastia and Masha. We are writing today's blog and my dad give us camera to take all the pictures. We are good friends for one year but have known each other at internot for ten years. I so happy that Masha will come to Amerika to live in Nebraska in November I hope.

We have good times together and act very silly.

We take this picture last night at Deribososkaya Street in Odessa. That is "Ah-Diess-ah"

I (Nastia) am very happy to come to America. But I am also sad to leave Odessa and my friends.

(Masha) I will miss my friend Nastia because she will live in America. I'm so happy to come to Nebraska but I'm scared to go to school because school is so big....many people and little bit know english and will be so hard. I hope to come to Virginia to see Nastia and I hope Nastia come to Nebraska to see me. I want say hi to Steve, Gail, Laura, Amy and Michele.

(Nastia) I will miss Odessa...Black Sea, Deribosovskaya Street, my school, Svetlana my art teacher, also Tania art teacher and all school friends. Also my English teacher Larissa and Dima, and friend Vika. But I'm so happy go to America to be able to have good future and a very funny brother CP and so beautiful mom and dad. And crazy sister also. I say goodbye now and see you soon.

Our Jessie

This is Dana's niece Jessie, who is the big reason why Dana and Christian are returning home early. Jessie is competing in the Miss Virginia Pageant this weekend, and on Thursday night, she won the preliminary talent competition! We are so proud of this young lady who has lived with us since last August. Jessie has experienced great sorrow, but she has the same strength of her aunt that allows her to carry on with unbelievable grace and excellence. She is carrying a 4.0 GPA after two full semesters of community college and devoting the rest of her free time to humanitarian causes. And of course she has spectacular talent as a classical vocalist. I know she blew the roof off the Roanoke Coliseum last night!

Our prayers are with you the rest of the way!!!! Dana will be there soon. We love you Jess!!!!

Manly Men

After spending two hours at a Russian banya with these men, I think I can say I have real friends in Ukraine. After all, I don't think you hang out at a banya with just anybody! The incredible part is that earlier today I had pulled out my Bradt Travel Guide and read all about the banya experience. I thought it would be pretty cool, but didn't want to go alone. Then only an hour or two later, our interpreter Alyona called and asked if I would like to go to the banya with her boyfriend Slava to celebrate his father's birthday! Unbelievable!!! Of course I was rarin to go, and I write this posting as a thoroughly relaxed man! Making it even better was that Slava's younger brother Anatoly joined us along with his friend Maxim, both who speak fluent English.

The banya is what we call the sauna, but in Ukraine and Russia, it is a multi-hour experience, shared by friends. Slava has served as our main driver for most of our stay, and he and I hit it off from the first day. Christian couldn't wait to see him every day and would run up to him and say "Slava my man!" This was Slava's treat for me, and it was unforgettable. Your wear the sporty wool hat when you go into the dry "Russian" sauna only. This banya also had a Turkish (wet) banya, for which you must remove the hat. The banya also differs from ours in that they use fragrant oils in the steam, and when you come out of the heat, you jump right into a cold pool! You can also choose to have an ice cold bucket of water dumped on your head. Then you repeat the process of banya/bath/banya for as many times as you like. Slava also arranged for me to have an oakleaf massage. They use two huge clusters of oak branches saturated in oil, and an attendant vigorously applies the hot leaves all over. This may be the best cure for a back ache ever invented. Afterwards, we all retired to the lounge room where beer, tea and other beverages are served. Experiencing this was another reminder of how much Dana and I have learned from Ukrainians, who place a high value on friendship.

Methods vary in the winter on how the cool-down is achieved!

The ultimate in father-son bonding!

I am never going to forget these men who I am especially honored to call my friends: (L-R) Anatoly, Maxim, Valeriy and Slava. Slava said he would be happy to come to Virginia and build a banya for us. I think we would need fewer anti-depressants if we had them all over America!

A Day In Odessa

Oh my, what a week and it's only Wednesday! Monday evening our beautiful Anastasia joined about 30 classmates in a graduation ceremony/entertainment extravaganza. We didn't know what to expect and left totally amazed at the talent and potential of these kids. Lately, we've mentioned some of the "challenges" that older adopted children present, but Dana and I were just blown away by the graduating children of "Internot 4." I hope that some of our blog postings in the last month will encourage others to think about adopting or helping these kids by other means.


Meanwhile, Dana and Christian had to be rerouted through Kyiv and will now fly home on Friday. We made a mad scramble to the Odessa train station last night, just in time for them to make the overnight train. Saying goodbye was so hard. After putting their bags in the train car and making sure they were OK, I sat down to pray for them and all I could do was cry. We're not used to being apart, and I still don't know when the girls and I will return.


It felt so strange coming back to the apartment where we've spent the past month. Dana and I got up every day and drank coffee together and shared some of the best weeks of our 11 year marriage. Christian was amazing this trip and I miss my little man terribly already.


But I didn't have any time to feel sorry for myself because the events of today were enough to write a lengthy adventure story about. Despite the fact that the ten day waiting period expired on Friday, we are not able to get the girls' passports until their miniscule personal bank accounts are resolved along with their small stake in a family apartment. This is where you encounter the surly Soviet style beauracracy that citizens of Ukraine have been dealing with their entire lives.


What it amounts to is that we actually have to pay an extra $1000 cash to get it "settled." Then there's the other interesting problem of changing Nastia's name on her Ukrainian passport. This is another lingering practice from the days of the police state when Ukrainian citizens 16 years and older had to carry a passport with them everywhere (in fairness I should say that the beaureaucrats in Richmond and Washington aren't exactly a model of efficiency either).


Fortunately, the woman directing all this frenzied activity was our excellent translator/facilitator Alyona, who is extraordinary. She speaks fluent English and deftly goes back and forth between two languages while answering two cell phones and all my dumb questions. Dashing and darting through every corner of Odessa and more than a few alleyways, we jumped from taxi to taxi, and on one occasion bailed out of a cab and hoofed it for at least two miles in less than 20 minutes. I'm used to running long distances, but I was struggling to keep up with Alyona who was dodging traffic, jumping over mud puddles and jaywalking like a champ, all in high-heels! Several times we blew off the elevator and ran up four or five flights of stairs.


The highlight of the morning was when I attempted to strike up a conversation with our first cab driver who appeared to be in his fifties. I went for the military angle and inquired about his service with the Soviet Army, then asked if he had used a Mosin-Nagant rifle and could shoot as well as Zaitzev, the famous WWII sniper. He started laughing as he shook his head yes, then reached into the console, pulled out a loaded 45 caliber pistol, slid a round into the chamber, and handed it to me! "Very nice, very nice," I said. He wouldn't take it back until I looked through the sites to demonstrate my approval, and fortunately, did not insist on me doing any target practice. He just threw it back in the console and lit up a stogie.


Understand that this guy was the only real taxi we used. When you hail a cab here, you are basically just hitch-hiking. Anyone will stop and pick you, usually in a 35 year old Lada without seatbelts. If you are lucky and happen to find one with something that resembles a seatbelt, they get offended if you try to put it on! Earlier this week, some guy told me at the end of a long day that the seatbelt was "not important....." I was not in the mood for his attitude and looked right at him and said "Ya Amerikanitz.....Important for me!"


Oh, while I'm at it, the driving.....brace yourselves folks! These guys make Dale Earnhardt, Sr. look like Little Bo Peep! The driving is aggressive, fast and not for the faint of heart. Although interestingly, I will say that they are actually very skilled at scaring you to death. I spoke to Nelson Calzadilla about this at length. He and wife Karen are also here adopting and Nelson is a surbuban Chicago policeman so he has seen alot of bad driving. He agrees that it seems out of control and admitted to being spooked at first, but observed that you see very few dents in the cars, and he also said that they pay attention to where they are going and use the horn the way its supposed to be used.


But that really doesn't prepare you when they decide to cross lanes illegally and pass cars on the sidewalk! This actually happened to us last week. Pedestrians just got out of the way and no one seemed to mind.


The truly hilarious part is that all this crazy driving takes place with the backbeat of the constant thumping and pumping of that ghastly EuroTech dance music. Believe it or not, George Michael is still a superstar here and it doesn't matter how old your driver is, they all listen to it, cranked up very loud! More than once today I laughed as I pictured myself in a speeded up Russian music video.


Another memorable moment occured as we were getting into one of the "private" taxis. Alyona looked at me and whispered, don't speak! Nothing ever stops me from speaking, even when I can't speak the language, but I obliged her request and kept my mouth shut for an hour as we whizzed through rush hour traffic. It was a wild lady driver who made alot of pedestrians and other drivers very mad at her so I was thrilled to get out and walk in the rain, and besides, seeing one cabbie pull a gun was enough for one day. Alyona informed me that the reason she gagged me was that we would have been charged double if the driver knew I was a Yank. I honestly think I would rather talk and pay double any day.


Meanwhile....Thursday and Friday are Ukrainian national holidays, so it looks like the girls and I won't be able to travel to Kyiv until Monday night and do our business with the US Embassy on Tuesday and Thursday because the embassy is closed on July 4th. I'm gonna have to stay in Odessa eating cheap gourment food and ice cream for another five days. I might even have to smoke a cigar or two.


Prayer request: I would appreciate your prayers for Dana and Christian's safety while in Kyiv and for their return flight on Friday.

The Home Stretch

Hard to believe, but after a whole month in Ukraine, we are packing our bags today. Christian and I catch the first flight out of Odessa Wednesday morning, while Jim and the girls have to take care of business with the US Embassy in Kyiv later this week. That will likely push their homecoming into next week. Jim will keep the blog going as long as he stays in Odessa, but it's time for me to say thanks to all of you for the incredible love and support you have sent our way.

We had no idea what kind of response we would get from doing this blog, but it has been overwhelming to get all of your heartfelt emails and comments. The most amazing thing is that we now have a bond with people we've never met. God Bless you all. For those following us who are in the "process," keep the faith! We never thought this day would come - but it does! (If you are curious about adopting in Ukraine, please see the links on this page.)

This month has been the most amazing and yet relaxing adventure I've ever had. I have not seen one person jogging in this city and that's been nice too - no guilt! On the contrary, we've eaten ice cream every day (sometimes twice) and haven't spotted a low-carb item on any menu! How the women look so great here is a mystery because they sure aren't drinking Atkins Shakes and doing Pilates! Having time off to spend with Jim, Christian and the girls has been wonderful and has certainly made the trip special.

But I think it's even more. I believe it's the genuine sincerity of these hard-working, sturdy people that has made this a journey to remember. I'll never forget seeing Dima, who is at least 65 years old, hauling bricks for 12 hours a day, seven days a week for the new apartment courtyard. He had a smile for me every single day. Nor will I forget the elderly babushkas standing at the two-hour long Orthodox worship service (no pews here)! These are tough, dignified and patient people and I have learned a lot from them.

But now it's time to move on - to take the girls home and begin the challenging task of building bonds and trying to form a loving family. There is a lot of work to do and not much time to do it given the girls' ages. They are essentially toddlers in teenage bodies, demonstrating behavior that is baffling and frustrating on a daily basis. And the real adventure has yet to begin! This will be very hard work, but we knew that coming into it.

Our lives will never be the same. For the last 4 1/2 years, this beautiful child has brought us more joy than we ever imagined. Part of me is sad that he will no longer have our undivided attention. But part of the reason we've come to Ukraine is to build a family for Christian. Jim and I both come from big families and have always wanted Christian to have loving siblings like we do.

This will no doubt take time. In fact things started out rocky on this front for Christian and the girls. By the end of their visit to America last year, the little guy was saying, "I want those girls back to Ukraine!" To which they would respond, "you go back Russia!" But the good news is that Christian now adores his sisters and they seem to respond in kind.

The kids are already rough-housing like they lived together all their lives. Here Galyna gives Christian a "wedgie".

Christian responds with some Tae Kwon Do on Nastia.



When all is said and done - this is what will make it work. Jim and I celebrated our 11th anniversary last week and we know that this is where it all starts. No doubt our marriage will be tested more than ever in the next couple of years. But I'm confident that if we put our faith and our marriage first, we'll give them something they've never had -self confidence, hope, a sense of what loving relationships look like - and ultimately an assurance that they are indeed adopted children of God. We pray for God's mercy as we go forward, and ask for your prayers as we begin life as a family of five.

The Evangelical Presbyterian Church Of Odessa

In the past month we have come to love this country. One of the reasons we have such a heavy heart about leaving is that we have to say goodbye to our fellow Presbyterians at the Evangelical Presbyterian Church of Odessa. The Ukrainian Presbyterians and American missionaries we've met here are just as fascinating as the history of the Reformed Christian faith in Ukraine, which dates back to the 16th century. It is a little known fact that the Protestant Reformation came this far eastward, but historical records show that approximately 100 Reformed Christian churches existed in Ukraine between 1570-1596. That came to a screeching halt with the Communist Revolution, but Presbyterianism is once again on the march in the land of the Rus.

This thriving congregation is one of 11 churches in the Evangelical Presbyterian Church of Ukraine. The largest is the 500 plus member Holy Trinity Church of Kyiv. The denomination was established by the Presbyterian Church in America's world missions organization, which also trains Ukrainian pastors and other church leaders at the Evangelical Reformed Seminary of Ukraine.

Today was a special treat as 38 choir members and musicians from Tenth Presbyterian Church in Philadelphia lifted their voices in glory to God. They will be performing in special concerts throughout the week.

Pastor Valera Bubuinin preaches a message of hope, which is translated into English.

Bob and Andrea Burnham have been PCA missionaries in Ukraine for 12 years. "Right now the Presbyterian Church of Ukraine is poised on the edge of exponential growth," says Bob. "Our goal is to have 44 churches in the denomination in the next 15 years." Read about their hope for Ukraine and inspirational story here.

Darlene and Clay Quarterman have devoted their lives to foreign missions. Clay is president of the Seminary. They say a big hello to all their old friends in Hopewell, Virginia!

The Martin family has called Odessa home for nine years: (L to R) David, Jill, Ruth Anne, Shirley and Paul. We were befriended by this wonderful missionary family in our first week.

One of the greatest blessings is that this church is attracting young folks who are eager to share God's love with their friends. Every week we saw orphans, and kids who had "graduated" from the orphanage worshiping here.

The beautiful voices of the youth choir sing out with such joy and heart, it is guaranteed to leave you misty-eyed! There is nothing like hearing favorite hymns and praise songs in Russian. We can't wait to return to this special church to see what God is doing in the years to come.

The Eastern Orthodox Church

Ukraine is the birthplace of Slavic civilization and for more than 1000 years, that history has been closely tied to the Orthodox Christian faith. Like most American Protestants, Orthodoxy has always been a mystery to me, but four years ago I had the privilege of taking a Systematic Theology course with Dr. Robert Letham, an esteemed Reformed pastor and scholar from Britain. Letham is thoroughly in the Reformed Evangelical camp, so it was surprising to hear him regularly quote Orthodox theologians such as Bishop Kallistos Ware and Alexander Schmeman. I finally got around to reading these authors in the past year and have attended Orthodox worship services in Richmond, so I was delighted to recently receive notice from the Westminster Theological Seminary Bookstore that Dr. Letham's new book is called "Through Western Eyes: Eastern Orthodoxy - A Reformed Perspective." The publisher writes:

Eastern Orthodoxy is increasingly popular in the Anglo-Saxon world. It conveys a sense of mystery, of continuity with the past, of dignified worship at a time when evangelical Protestantism is increasingly cheapened and trivialized.

Letham's book examines the serious theological differences between East and West while cautioning Reformed believers that:

"There are clear and significant areas of agreement - a common allegiance to the triune God; the person of Christ; the authority of Scripture and the truth of the gospel."

Indeed, the Orthodox faithful have defended, fought for, and died for the faith since the very beginning of Christianity. Please don't miss the opportunity to visit the famous Orthodox sites while in Ukraine, and for an unforgettable experience, attend one of the beautiful Orthodox liturgies.

The Bell Tower at the entrance of the ancient St. Sophia's Cathedral in Kyiv. You can see mosaic and frescoes here dating back to the 11th Century.

The seven gold domes of the stunning Dormition Cathedral at Kyiv's Monastery of the Caves, a modern replica of the building erected in 1077. The original was destroyed by the retreating Soviet Army in WWII.

Founded in 1051, the Monastery of the Caves is the holiest site in Slavic lands.

Visiting the actual caves is a bit of a trek, but because it is an active monastery, there is no admission fee. Women must cover their heads and legs. Men are not permitted to wear shorts and no pictures can be taken.

The Caves entrance. This is not for the claustrophobic! You wind your way through very narrow passages passing by the bodies of the mummified monks. This is a rare and moving experience.

No signs are in English and none of the tourist guides said anything about not taking pictures of the Priests (oops!).

One of the things I hope to teach my Russian-born son and Ukrainian-born daughters is that Christians are actually called to suffer (1 Pet 2:21). Modern Christianity doesn't teach this biblical truth much anymore, but few people have suffered more throughout history than Orthodox Christians. They have never forgotten what it means to take up the cross.

Beautiful Odessa

Update: the ten day waiting period ends today (Friday)! It's another one of the big markers that all families adopting in Ukraine anticipate. Of course it wouldn't be international adoption if we didn't have more red tape to navigate through, which means we won't be returning until next week. Dana and Christian will likely fly out of Odessa in the middle of next week, while the girls and I return to Kyiv to get their US passports at the American Embassy. So their homecoming won't take place until next weekend at the earliest. We're not complaining about the extra time though, because we absolutely love the envigorating and fascinating city of Odessa!

Today my youngest two children and I walked (you walk everywhere here) to what has become one of my all-time favorite restaurants. The Odesskya Boulevard Restaurant overlooking the Black Sea epitomizes the laid-back style of this resort city with excellent Ukrainian dishes and outdoor seating that rivals Paris!

A big bowl of Borsch cost $3 and is quite filling along with a slice or two of bread. As we discovered in Moscow, there's nothing better than a hot bowl of Borsch in the winter, which is much tastier than it looks!

For a touristy joint, the service is very friendly, but don't expect to ever sit down to a quick meal. They just don't understand the concept of lunch "hour."

I am not kidding about the comparisons to Paris. Much of downtown Odessa is even more beautiful!

The city was built (only 200 years ago) by French and Italian architects.

This is where to come to see the locals - the funky Sobornaya Square Park. It's one of the most unusual places I've ever experienced and I never tire of coming to just hang out.

Unlike the more touristy places, true artisans display their work here.

This is the place to come for good quality, handmade Ukranian stuff.

Everything happens in the shadows of the stunning Orthodox Church of the Transfiguration.

I sat under this Icon of Christ for more than an hour just watching people pass by.

The faithful stop right in their tracks, turn toward Christ, and cross themselves. This woman prayed outloud for several minutes. It is a scene that is repeated dozens of times throughout the day.

While I was sitting all alone, I had a bizarre and hilarious experience that I'll probably never figure out. You are warned by everyone to never mess with the cops in Ukraine, and to never try to take their picture. So, I was a little worried when this officer approached, prompting me to fumble for my passport. But he started showing me that he wanted me to take his picture. He took a few steps away and turned, and I happily obliged. Then I showed it to him, and let him know I thought it was a lousy shot....

Since he was now my buddy, I demonstrated how he needed to walk and try to look more natural. I had him go back and forth a few times snapping off several frames, finally deciding this shot looked OK, as onlookers observed the whole thing in amazement. He looked at the picture, said "cool" and just walked away!

I was so happy I didn't get detained that I paid double for these fresh cut flowers!